Benoit de Clerck on Zenith at 160 and the G.F.J. Reveal

Zenith has the blues, however not the Blues. A yr of chaos, although it may be, the Swiss watch model celebrates its a hundred and sixtieth anniversary with a sequence of distinctive blue watches, together with a giant shock that we now have needed to sit on since February. However extra on that later as a result of it requires some mise-en-scene, as they are saying in filmmaking. CEO Benoit de Clerck tells us excitedly concerning the agency’s deep roots in Le Locle, having had its headquarters and manufacture there since 1865. As he says, that is an uncommon matter in watchmaking, with no agency at present nonetheless occupying its unique website and utilizing it for a similar capabilities. A real marvel, this manufacture is as spectacular to de Clerck because it was when he described its virtues to us final yr, at Watches and Wonders Geneva.

Our assembly this yr just isn’t on the honest, for this story, however in Singapore simply after the LVMH Watch Week, with each de Clerck and Product Growth Director Romain Marietta visiting. That is the rationale we don’t get into the anniversary watches, with one exception. Chronologically, that is the primary interview we did for this concern, which winds its technique to you solely now as a result of that is our first print concern after Spring, though Imaginative and prescient is hardly an everyday concern. Zenith, for its half, is a mainstay of our protection, as its standing as a maker of very extremely regarded actions befits. The manufacture’s exceptional story – and survival – additionally earns it a spot within the pages of any watch specialty title. It’s no understatement to say that the historical past of Zenith marks nicely the general historical past of Swiss watchmaking.

As Zenith celebrates its momentous birthday, there may be one other approach wherein it’s totally different to its friends, which de Clerck appropriately factors out is said to the manufacture itself. As a result of there are hardly any watch companies which have remained in the identical place since their foundations, most have misplaced all method of untold treasures over many generations. These embrace the whole lot from archive information to tools, most of which Zenith has managed to protect just by advantage of by no means having needed to transfer. In fact, de Clerck doesn’t want to say that even Zenith would have misplaced its very coronary heart if watchmaker Charles Vermot had not indulged in a little bit of heroic insubordination.

It’s this coronary heart — the eagerness for mechanical watchmaking, not essentially simply the know-how behind the El Primero — that consumes de Clerck and certainly lots of his well-known predecessors at Zenith. He would solely trace at what was coming when he met us, at one level even giving us the outdated ‘wink, wink,’ actually, and that’s all we’ll say about it. However in fact, the whole lot is match to print now, with WWG 2025 firmly within the rear-view mirror. In some ways, we flatter ourselves to suppose that watch manufacturers take note of what we write, however with the G.F.J watch, we’re lastly seeing totally different sides to Zenith being introduced into the twenty first century. That is the watch de Clerck was so assured would attraction to you, pricey readers, and to us as nicely. It comes from the archives, however not directlybecause you’ll certainly realise that Zenith had by no means had a watch within the assortment named after the model’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot.

Chiming in right here was Product Growth Director Romain Marietta, who defined that historical past and legacy provided glorious uncooked supplies for the model. “The secret’s deciding on the correct watches that may be profitable now,” mentioned Marietta. “I hope the brand new watch will converse to the viewers (of collectors and connoisseurs).” Powered by the legendary calibre 135, the watch would possibly already be well-known amongst the very group Marietta and de Clerck referenced, due to a particular sequence bought by Phillips in affiliation with Bacs and Russo in 2022.

We get into this calibre and the brand new G.F.J watch in our transient chat with de Clerck and Marietta, with more-than-usual editorial intrusions. All solutions beneath are from de Clerck, besides the place famous, for causes of readability.

You talked loads about your first 100 days as CEO, together with with us. Give us an replace on how issues are going?

It’s been a really attention-grabbing yr, with quite a lot of discoveries (for me)…quite a lot of good and enriching issues (and experiences) for me (personally and professionally). Total, it was yr (for Zenith), though definitely not a stroll within the park. We talked earlier than concerning the first 100 days after I took over as CEO, and – I repeat – how very troublesome it was for me, going by way of it with out making any judgments, solely listening. It was an excellent lesson as a result of it permits you to achieve perspective (on how issues are finished); nevertheless, modifications have needed to occur and you understand, issues are at all times evolving, which is regular. It’s a part of the job and a part of the journey.

And amongst these modifications, are there any highlights?

On the product aspect, we now have adjusted and recalibrated; there aren’t any main modifications. It has not been a 90° flip or a 180. Once more, I’m not right here to vary and drop the ball (by making modifications for the sake of constructing modifications). I gained’t change the whole lot that has been finished (by my predecessors) as a result of what has been finished has been finished correctly, in order that’s crucial. Can we enhance it? Sure, in fact. Can we do issues higher? Sure, in fact. There’s at all times room to enhance and that is the problem, you understand, and that is a part of my job and the job of my staff.

We mentioned the potential of the model outdoors the core chronograph space beforehand, whereas speaking concerning the a hundred and sixtieth anniversary this yr. Inform us what we are able to anticipate.

The fantastic thing about Zenith is that the model may be very wealthy in historical past; there’s a giant archive. This heritage is a really sturdy pillar for Zenith; for us, it’s only a matter of moving into the archives, digging into the heritage and (in some instances) speaking to individuals who had been working on the manufacture (prior to now). There may be at all times a narrative to find. Don’t neglect we’re celebrating 160 years of being in the identical constructing in order that’s crucial.

You realize, for instance, you may have moved few instances in your life; you load up the mover’s truck after which you may have two or three containers left that gained’t match as a result of the truck is full. So, now you understand what to donate to the Salvation Military! The fantastic thing about Zenith is that we now have at all times been in Le Locle; we now have by no means moved. So, we saved all of the archives and due to this fact we now have a plethora of choices, of designs. Digging into that is a part of the enjoyable that we now have with the product staff . I can inform you that it’s troublesome to decide on as a result of the whole lot is there (within the historical past of the model); it’s only a matter of enhancing (and updating).

You additionally requested concerning the anniversary… you’ll be flabbergasted by the celebration! As a result of what we now have determined —it’s excellent news—just isn’t to enter fireworks. We now have determined to cement and discuss what our model values are and what we’re all about. We’re positively not about fireworks! Fireworks final half an hour after which you may have a pleasant finale for 5 minutes and the following day you get up and also you neglect it. We’re about authenticity; we’re about heritage; and we’re about issues which are actual. This is essential, and that’s why for the celebration of 160 years, we’re expressing the model in a special angle.

And that in fact brings us to the G.F.J, which isn’t a supercomplication, which is as near fireworks in nice watchmaking, as some would have anticipated…

We now have a speaking piece that pertains to what we’re…what we’re famend for; infamous for, even, however in a great way. It’s all about chronometry in fact (and the numerous chronometry prizes earned by Zenith again within the day). The in need of it’s that we would like it (the watch) to stay one thing that may have a novel message for watch collectors, and for many who know concerning the model and for the individuals who don’t too!

(For individuals who have no idea, the restricted version G.F.J watch is a time-only piece powered by the newest model of Zenith’s calibre 135, which the manufacture just isn’t distinguishing from the 1948 unique with a brand new designation. Again within the post-WWII period, Zenith gained a report 235 observatory chronometry prizes with a model of the unique calibre 135. As de Clerck and Marietta notice, this motion encapsulates all of the issues fans learn about Zenith — principally, everybody who received excited by the 2022 version, however it has been up to date with many enhancements, together with an extended energy reserve and an unbelievable fee of +/-2 seconds per day. Be aware the lapis lazuli dial and mother-of-pearl small seconds subdial, and the in-house developed platinum case is value a better have a look at. We might be getting extra in-depth on this piece in a subsequent concern – Ed).

In the event you see the guilloche ornament on the dial, on the hour-marker chapter ring, this can be a reference to the design of the bricks on the manufacture. Additionally, you will see it on the motion plates and bridges (and the matching platinum bracelet, within the model so-equipped). This can be a stunning technique to pay tribute to our model; to pay tribute to our savoir-faire (previous and current). The watch reveals off what we’re good at, which is craftsmanship. I might not name it low-key (in reference to my feedback, which have been edited out – Ed) however far more genuine (going past what’s regular for Swiss manufacturers resembling Zenith, at its degree).

The G.F.J is a model new watch that has by no means existed on this kind, however we perceive that you’re within the means of decreasing references. Please inform us extra.

We’re rationalizing the gathering for certain; it’s an ongoing course of. It’s not going to be finished with a sledgehammer or (something drastic like this); it’s going to be a calculated discount as a result of I like purity, to start with, and I like when issues are easy. At the moment, I’ve to make issues simpler for my companions but additionally for all of the individuals who purchase Zenith watches. This discount of references is a programme that we now have initiated with Romain, and will probably be an ongoing course of. However we do have a end line as nicely.

Would this rationalisation be associated to creating the model extra approachable or maybe simpler to know? Particularly for youthful fans and collectors?

That is one thing that we take very critically as a result of, you understand, the youthful technology is the technology of tomorrow and the technology of at present, really. And we all know for a indisputable fact that in our boutiques and our community (of companions), we’re seeing a youthful crowd. So, that implies that at present, people who find themselves shopping for Zenith watches are getting youthful, which is nice information! This can be a dream come true for many manufacturers. It means we’re getting increasingly more newcomers as nicely; I’m speaking numbers right here. I can’t share the numbers, however we all know that we’re getting a youthful technology and a bigger variety of newcomers.

And that is coming naturally, and never solely naturally but additionally organically, as a result of the attraction of the model is rising. Why? As a result of at present, individuals, whether or not younger or not, are searching for authenticity and we’re very genuine. Individuals are searching for one thing that basically occurred; they’re searching for credible historical past (somewhat than tales invented by manufacturers). Everyone seems to be welcome to go to the manufacture (which has expanded its public go to days from as soon as every week to twice) and see what we’re actually about. We now have 160 years of historical past in our buildings.

This story was first seen as a part of WOW’s #78 Imaginative and prescient 2025 Challenge

For extra on the newest in luxurious watch reads, click on right here.